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Lighting basics and the ceiling roseWhat goes on each terminal of a ceiling rose?
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- Cable: usually 1.0 mm² T&E (carries 16 A clipped direct, Table F6). 1.5 mm² carries 20 A. Don't over-size for "future proofing".
- Protective device: usually a 6 A breaker. A 3 A is possible for very small loads.
- Switch closed = closed circuit = lamp on. Switch open = open circuit = lamp off.
- A single-pole switch breaks the line only. A double-pole switch breaks line and neutral. Never take a neutral into an ordinary light switch.
- A plastic pendant can be Class II on 2-core flex; a metal pendant is Class I, so it needs 3-core flex with the CPC terminated at the rose.
- The other way to wire it: in 2-plate wiring the feed goes to the switch, not the rose. It suits ELV downlighters that have their own drivers. At the switch the incoming blue is a real neutral, so it goes in a connector, not the switch.
- Tip: make a bathroom light the last point on a circuit, so fewer cables end up in a fitting exposed to condensation.
Two lights on one switch
If you want the next light to come on with this switch, take the next light's brown out of the loop terminal and put it in the switch-line (L) terminal, and do the same at each light (daisy-chain). If each room has its own switch, keep the browns in loop. The lights are still in parallel: each gets 230 V, and one lamp failing doesn't turn the others off.
If you want the next light to come on with this switch, take the next light's brown out of the loop terminal and put it in the switch-line (L) terminal, and do the same at each light (daisy-chain). If each room has its own switch, keep the browns in loop. The lights are still in parallel: each gets 230 V, and one lamp failing doesn't turn the others off.
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